Collars
& Cuffs |
| How we
approach collars and cuffs depends on their structure. By this we don't
mean the quality of the item but whether or not they use a fusible
interlining to stiffen and stick the collar to the material, or a
non-fusible stiffening which leaves the fabric loose. |
This
example is of a fused collar (remember to iron the right side); |

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| Flatten
the collar on the surface of the board so that the side you see is
facing you, place the iron at one end and grip and pull the other end
with the other hand. |
Guide
the iron quickly from one end towards your fingers, pulling all the
time, only lifting your fingers away at the last moment before the iron
reaches them. |
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This
method is quite simple and you can't go wrong so long as you keep
pulling the collar. |
| The
difficulty arises with the other type of collar. With these the fabric
is loose so if you push the iron from one end to the other a roll of
cloth will develop in front of the iron that will eventually become a
crease when you reach the stitching at the other end, because it has
nowhere to go. You will effectively set a crease in the collar if you
follow the example above. Instead
follow this example for perfect results; |
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| 1. Begin by placing the edge of the iron
on the very edge of the collar, on the right side. |
2. Move the iron down and away from the
edge, creating a roll in front of the iron moving away from the
edge of the collar. |
3. Keep moving in and down until you get
very close to the stitching that attaches the collar to the rest
of the shirt. |
| 4. Now move the iron to
the area next to the one you've just don and start at the very
edge. |
5. Move the iron in
towards the join. |
6. Continue moving inward
until you are again close to the join where the collar attaches
to the shirt. |
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If you follow this
example any crease that you have put in because the material is loose
will occur next to the join where the shirt attaches to the collar. This
is important because you can't see this area of the shirt once the
collar is rolled over. |
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| IMPORTANT: |
Never fold and
iron a collar or cuff to form a crease, they are meant to be
rolled over. The brittle nature of the stiffening will wear them
out very quickly if you do. |
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| Consider
cuffs exactly the same as with collars. They are either fused or
non-fused but they come in two styles, either single sided and double
sided, usually used with cufflinks. They
should be treated in exactly the same way as collars and you should always iron the side that will be seen (effectively the inside of a
double cuff and the outside of a single cuff). |

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| Flatten
and smooth the cuff then place the iron at one end and hold the
other. If the cuff doesn't lay flat use your hand to raise it so
the iron can iron a flat section. |
Keep
pulling the cuff while running the iron across. Angle the iron
so that only part of it is on the cuff if it won't stay flat the
whole way across. |
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| Ironing
a double cuff is the same as ironing a non fused collar, it's just a
different shape. Start at a corner and work away from both the corner
and the edge, pushing any rolled cloth backward. Stop if the roll is
getting too large and flatten the cuff out again, re-starting lower down
on the same side. As long as you push the cloth backwards you shouldn't
have any unsightly creases formed anywhere they can be seen, the back
section being next to the skin when the cuff is folded in two. |
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